TOKYO
HAKONE
KYOTO
Ohayo gozaimasu! I'm sitting in Premium Economy (nbd) on the way back from Japan typing up our two-week itinerary for everything we did.
Izzi did an amazing job researching and planning as much as she could, do not confuse me posting this as being responsible for any part of the trip.
The following shows you everything we did and the idea behind why, plus the vibes and if we would change anything. The number one thing to know is you absolutely cannot have a bad time visiting Japan unless you are a completely inflexible grump. Every restaurant has incredible food, every bar serves amazing drinks, every city is a wonder of its own. Live a little!
Firs thing's first: let's just chat general things to know that we were told before we went and can now confirm, deny, or a little bit of both.
NUMBER ONE | POINTS POINTS POINTS
Traveling is expensive! We used two $2,000 vouchers from giving up our seats last year to book Economy roundtrip nonstop tickets, then we used 60,000 points and $600 to put our name on the Upgrade list each way. We got the Business class upgrade for the way there, and Premium Economy for the way back. Both, if possible, are musts, and I say that as a non-believer in Premium Economy generally. We also used IHG points to stay at the Kimpton for our final three nights in Tokyo (very nice and new, they run a 100% points match sale twice a year so we purchased up last year).
NUMBER TWO | PHRASES TO KNOW
"Konnichiwa" or just "Hi" - hello
"Arigato" - thank you
"Ariga
to gozaimasu" - thank you very much (go-zay-moss)
"Dozo" - please
"Sumimasen" - excuse me or sorry (sue-meh-moss-en)
"Mata ne" - see you later (matinee essentially)
"O-kaikei" - check (oh-ky-kay)
"Gaijin" - gringo (derogatory)
ā
NUMBER THREE | ADD "SUICA" TO YOUR APPLE WALLET
Everything is perfect in Japan - that being said, the trains, even to Big Transit New Yorkers like me and Izzi, are initially as confusing as advertised. The quickest fix is to add the Suica card to your Apple wallet. This is just the tap-to-go train card that you pre-load with money. Otherwise you're waiting in line for tickets every time, and you'll be taking the train a lot.
The way trains work there is smart - you tap to enter and you tap to leave. You don't get charged until you leave and it's based on how far you traveled. Same with buses. Additionally, trains are the main form of travel so they're the center of every neighborhood/city. That means EVERY train, both the local subways and the bullet trains (Amtrak but better), run out of the same stations. Imagine every subway station being Moynihan. This is why things get confusing.
When you fly in, you'll take the express train into Tokyo or wherever. You're going to screw it up, and all the white people around you will be equally confused. Here's the idea - you need to tap Suica to enter to the station for any train at any point to ride the subway, and then you need an extra ticket to ride on special trains like the Shinkansen bullet train and others. So you land, you already have $50 loaded on your Suica, you just need to buy an express ticket to the city you're going to. Tap Suica to get through the gate, show your ticket on the train. Maybe this helps. Probably not. Gotta just do it yourself.
NUMBER FOUR | NORMS TO KNOW
The best advice is to just do what the locals are doing around you, but here's a short list of things to know.
NO JAYWALKING - lights are the law, no walking unless green, even if it's a big step across. You CAN jaywalk on side streets with no lights, but generally you'll get the idea since literally nobody else is.
LEFT SIDE OF THE ROAD - walk/drive on the left, oncoming on the right. This includes ESCALATORS. You'll see 100% conformity to standing on the left side of the elevator and passing on the right. Don't stand in the passing lane, again, you'll see 100% conformity from everyone else. It's incredible.
SHHHH - the lack of noise pollution for a city of 38 MILLION PEOPLE (four NYCs in one) is truly wild. Just speak at the volume of the room around you, don't be the main character of next season's White Lotus.
YOUR HANDS - we were told no pointing, I think it's generally fine, just wouldn't point AT people. Hand things to people with both hands on it (the check, passport, etc).
NUMBER FIVE | LINES ARE FAST BUT FREQUENT
Last note here at the top - I firmly will not wait in lines in the US but in Japan it's inevitable. They're typically very quick relative to your place in line, and they won't have a line that's like three hours without telling you first. Anything you saw on TikTok or an influencer's page is going to have a line and you'll have to get there minimum 30 minutes before open to just get in line. As soon as we figured this out, we pivoted and actually didn't go to most of the places Izzi had on the map. Reservations online are nearly nonexistent and confusing, but lean on your hotel concierge and I promise they'll send you to an even better place!
LET'S GET INTO THE ITINERARY. IT'S MOSTLY CHRONOLOGICAL BUT SOME OF THE TOKYO STUFF WE JUMPED AROUND SO I'M MAKING IT MORE EFFICIENT FOR YOU. JUST READ IT.
TABLE
OF
CONTENTS
(CLICK TO NAVIGATE)
[TOKYO - GINZA]
0. ACCOMODATIONS
1. WHERE WE ATE
2. TSUKIJI FISH MARKET
3. TEAMLABS: PLANETS
4. TOKYO SKYTREE
5. SEASHELL WINE BAR
ā
[KYOTO]
0. ACCOMODATIONS
1. WHERE WE ATE
2. TERAMACHI
3. OSAKA DAY TRIP
4. SAKE BUMPY
5. MIPIG CAFE
6. SHRINES / PALACE
[HAKONE]
0. ACCOMODATIONS
1. HOT SPRINGS RESORT
[TOKYO - SHINJUKU]
0. ACCOMODATIONS
1. WHERE WE ATE
2. GOLDEN GAI
3. HARAJUKU
4. SHIBUYA
TOKYO
GINZA
0. ACCOMODATIONS
We spent our first two nights in the Ginza neighborhood of Tokyo. It and Shinjuku tend to be the most traveled by foreigners, and we loved it! Ended up (accidentally) returning for our other plans later in the trip, but I grouped everything local here regardless of when we personally did it.
HOTEL GRACERY GINZA
COST: ~$200/NIGHT
We took the NEX express train from our flight into Narita Airport to Tokyo Station, transferred to a local train, then walked about five minutes to the hotel. Pretty common formula. The 12 hour time change will screw with even the strongest, so wouldn't schedule too much on night one. There's a Hooters down the street from this that Izzi wouldn't let me go to if that's helpful.
WHERE WE ATE
1. SUSHI KUWANO - the best meal I've ever had and probably ever will. Also the most expensive, I won't apologize to you or American Express, Chef Tatsu received a Michelin star every year from 2010 to 2024 at his 8 person countertop on the 3rd floor of a random office building near Hotel Gracery. We had it set up by our concierge on the last night of our trip - asked for an omakase rec and he said he'd show us a number per person and we could accept or reject it. That number was $350 each before drinks. An exceptional experience, reservation from someone local probably required.
ā
2. TURRET COFFEE - a coffee shop mentioned in the Michelin Guide many times and for good reason. Just a shop on a side road with a line, expect probably 15-20 minutes before you order. Delectable and worth the short wait, we walked to a nearby park to sit and start the morning.
āā
3. SOBA NOODLE - Lunch on our second day was the Soba noodle restaurant next to the popular Tonkatsu place and entirely filled with locals and a menu completely in Japanese. Might have been one of the best slurps of the trip. Go where they go! It's where the best bites are hiding!
āā
4. TEMPURA - Same deal on day three, we hit a random tempura restaurant for Izzi to get her fix before our train to Kyoto. It was initially very daunting (for me) to go up to the second and third floor for restaurants and stuff but that's just where business is. If they have a sign, they want you to walk in. Don't be a scaredy Bob.
ā
5. 7-ELEVEN EVERYTHING - as a US 7-eleven guy it's absolutely unbelievable how good everything in the Japan stores is. Obviously the egg salad sandos, two a day minimum, but truly anything off those shelves is better than a lot of US sit down food. Same wtih FamilyMart and Lawson's.
āā
Places on our list we didn't eat because of lines:
-Tonkatsu Marushichi Ginza
-Udon Shinn
-Godaime Hanayama Udon
TSUKIJI FISH MARKET
Before 9am, 2-3 Hours
All tourists end up at Tsukiji one way or another it seems - most of the shops open around 9am but if you get there early enough, you can often eat around before they officially open. We had wagyu skewers, tamago, cold 9am beer, and so much more. Overall a fantastic intro to the country and culture, would definitely hit this early on.
TEAMLABS: PLANETS
Whenever, 2-3 hour commitment
You've definitely seen someone on the gram post from here at some point..and it's worth all the hype. Like a Chuck E Cheese art museum or something. Plenty of photo opps (but no flash allowed) plus you get to run wild in the Athletic Forest, literally smell the flowers, or maybe enjoy a gummy and just stare at the light show. Can't miss! (Another one we had planned for the end of our trip but is closer to Ginza). This is a temporary exhibit, but Borderless is permanent and apparently even larger.
TOKYO SKYTREE
Sunset/Evening, 1-3 Hour Commitment
Not in Ginza but a short train to Sumida (and what we did while staying in Ginza). There's a few Big Buildings overlooking each city (like EDGE Hudson Yards). We only chose Skytree because it was close to a micro pig cafe, no specific reason or anything, and we didn't even get in the micro pig cafe.
We booked a 6:30pm reservation with last light on the Weather app at like 7:10pm. Definitely way cooler to see all the night lights beneath you, plus they have concessions and alcohol up on the top floor so you can kill some time as it gets dark. We grabbed an insanely delicious espresso martini right beforehand across the street in a joint called Everything Espresso bar. Highly recommend a happy hour there if you follow in our footsteps. Also the Krispy Kreme in the food court. PICS BELOW!
SEASHELL WINE BAR
Night, However Long You Want
The midpoint of the train from Sumida back to Ginza rode over one of Izzi's finds which was a wine bar that served glasses in actual seashells. The guy was DIALED IN. For the first thirty minutes we were alone with him, sharing nothing but meaningful silence and hushed whispers. Then some truly awful Americans (loud) came in and destroyed the vibe. If you're in the area, worth a go, if you're not, maybe wouldn't travel for it. We could have done more than one night in Golden Gai (our last night).
IMPERIAL PALACE
Whenever, 1 hour commitment
We walked from Tsukiji here and with all the respect possible to the people of Tokyo this was probably the most missable of the trip. A tour might have been interesting but if you're just going to peer at the outer sanctum of their government, there is truly little to see. It ain't the White House view. Kyoto was much more involved (because it is not longer an active palace). Pics below nonetheless!
KYOTO
0. ACCOMODATIONS
We did four nights at the beautiful hotel below, pretty touristy but sometimes that's what you want for your home base. Concierge was helpful, they had a rooftop, and a fresh bakery pumping out the greatest mochi donuts I will ever have.
NOHGA HOTEL KYOTO
COST: ~$250/NIGHT
We took an afternoon Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto - roughly 2 hours - but it was our biggest train headache to date. LONG STORY SHORT, you can preorder tickets online, but where we transferred didn't yet have QR code readers to scan in. So we had to wait in line with everyone else. Luckily, it's one touch rescheduling, no American late fee capitalist shit so we literally just pushed it 30 minutes and got on easily.
NOTE: KYOTO CLOSES EARLY FOR DINNER! EAT FROM LIKE 5:30 TO 7:30 OR YOU MIGHT BE S.O.L.
WHERE WE ATE
1. HANAMOTO STEAKHOUSE - as mentioned above, Kyoto closes early for dinner, like be seated before 7pm, so we were scrambling in Gion to eat somewhere and found this incredible wagyu teppenyaki (means they grill it in front of you). Chef had a restaurant in Tokyo for 20 years before moving back to Kyoto in 2021. Wagyu is always a little pricier but undoubtedly worth it.
āā
2. SUSHI TAKA - we went here for dinner, waited in line for 30 minutes which was perfect for us to go get cash before we were seated. Two dudes rolling fish like crazy, and some of the best eel tempura we'll ever have. Izzi got Set B, I got Set A, fun for the whole family.
ā
3. ICHIRAN RAMEN - a legendary brand for a reason!ā We did lunch here when we saw only a small line while shopping and they were the tastiest noods I've ever had. Absolute must, might even make my entire personality ramen this summer we'll see.
ā
4. KURA REVOLVING SUSHI - We were hellbent on finding conveyor belt sushi and we ended up doing it twice! Once here at Kura, once in Osaka at Sushiro (more on that below). Kura is the traditional grab what you want off the belt in front of you style (but can order to your seat as well). An extremely delicious novelty.
āāā
5. UDON SANSHIKI - Another incredible meal because of our inability to eat early enough - this was down the street from the hotel and had juicy juicy noods. Definitely recommend if you're at our hotel but if you're elsewhere I'm sure you can find a similar experience near you!
āāāā
6. BURGER KING - I WILL NOT APOLOGIZE. BBQ SAUCE AND CHEESE HOT DOG. WHY NOT.
āāāā
Places on our list we didn't eat because of lines:
-Kyo Apollo for Izakaya
-Wagyu Ryotei Bungo Gionā
-Mare
TERAMACHI / NISHIKI MARKET
Whenever, as much time as needed
The new downtown (we think?), essentially the central shopping / covered mall area of Kyoto. So much vintage shopping and of course the Nishiki Market with endless food and local cuisine. Perfect for a lunch break, and we also bought a bunch of gift chopsticks and pottery here. Not to mention by new suitcase of vintage clothes. You'll end up here no matter what if you go to Kyoto.
DAY TRIP TO OSAKA
Full day, 15 minute train ride
Osaka is only a 15-minute bullet train ride from Kyoto, and a day trip is the perfect action-packed activity. We ate, we drank, we lost money playing claw machines, we ate more, we drank more, we lost more money. Highly recommend spending the day, we did 10am to 5pm and it was perfect. Highlights included:
-Michelin-star Mizuno
-Conveyor belt sushi at Sushiro
-Hedgehog Cafe
ā
SAKE BUMPY
Sunset/Evening, 1-3 Hour Commitment
All you can drink Sake for 2 hours! The owner was an incredibly knowledgeable artiste who had English pamphlets to explain all the different types of sake. We had the added bonus of his friends stopping in and joining us for a few too many sips. At one point he asked us, how did you hear of me? Do you know what "Reddit" is? They're very nice to me on "Reddit." We had a great laugh and truly a spectacular time. Highly recommend!
MIPIG CAFE
FOREVER (30m-1hr)
THE MICRO PIG CAFE. THE PIGS ARE AWESOME. LIKE 20 BUCKS EACH AND THEY COME SNUGGLE WITH YOU PLUS A DRINK IS INCLUDED. HIGHLY RECOMMEND. UNBELIEVABLE. There's a lot of them around Japan too so just dig around, we did Kyoto but could have done several in Tokyo. Other animal cafes include the hedgehog, the Shiba dog cafe, one with birds and owls, and more. Look around!
SHRINES / PALACE
1-2 Hours Each
Kyoto was the OG capital of Japan until it moved to Tokyo - they've turned the former imperial palace into a walking tour. It's interesting, fun to see, definitely better than the Tokyo experience. Plus of course Big Orange , the Kiyomizu-Dera Temple, and various others. These are nice to walk around and take in.
HAKONE
0. ACCOMODATIONS
HERE'S THE SITUATION - Hakone is the onsen capital of Japan (don't quote me). A natural hot springs town with a bunch of resorts to reserve all-inclusive stays with a private hot spring bath on your terrace. Many people just do one night since it's about 30 minutes from Tokyo, we did two and don't regret it, but obviously it was one of our big expenses of the trip. Everything is included, from beer and wine to breakfast and dinner.
Kinnotake TÅnosawa
Cost: Over $1k/night
They had a great gym, perfect ambiance, and wonderful service. We did try the Japanese breakfast one morning and as MUCH as we try to give into the culture...we did the Western breakfast the second day. Some times you just want a croissant and egg you know.
TOKYO
SHINJUKU
0. ACCOMODATIONS
To be 100% honest with you, the time zones completely threw us off and we thought we had one more night than we did. We realized like the day ebfore we left and luckily got one of our Kimpton nights back, but reminder that when you fly back from Japan you will take off and land at the same time. So we left at 5:30pm Tuesday and landed 5:30pm Tuesday. Weird!
KIMPTON SHINJUKU TOKYO
COST: ~$800/NIGHT
Our final stop for the trip, the Kimpton was primarily English speaking, we also like staying here because there's a free happy hour every night. Reminder that we booked with points via our IHG credit card, especially helpful when they're running their 100% points match if you're planning ahead! Nice hotel, new build, but less central than the others we stayed at I'd say.
WHERE WE ATE
1. STANDING SUSHI BAR - One of those places whose name says it all. Go in, stand while they make your order, eat while you're standing, leave so the next people come in. A perfect spot for lunch or early dinner. Highly recommend 12 to 15 pieces, fantastic meal.
ā
2. L'ANTICA PIZZERIA DA MICHELE - a Neapolitan pizzerria in Shinjuku, definitely a great lunch spot and perfect place to land if you strike out with the others. Wouldn't necessarily call it a must-do local experience but no regrets for grabbing a bite and spritz there.
āāāā
And that's actually it! We did a lot of walking and 7-11ing, plus our big reservations ended up being back in Ginza (oops). But highly recommend the Standing Sushi bar for a meal, and as always, anywhere whatsoever.
ā
We really wanted to get pizza but it was hard to get in since everybody wants the same two places. These ones you can make a res via hotel but we did not do that.
-Pizza Marumo
-Seirinkan
GOLDEN GAI
All Night
Probably my (Bob) favorite part of the trip, and anybody who's been to Tokyo will be saying GOLDEN GAI GOLDEN GAI GOLDEN GAI for good reason. We only did one night, I wish we had done two (one beginning of the trip, one end). Essentially Golden Gai was their former red light district turned bar economy for especially tourists - every bar only has 7 or 8 seats, but there's like 50 different bars on the first, second, and third floors. You're just popping in to every place holding up two fingers seeing if anybody has room while they pour drinks. Most seem to do one or two and move it along. Enough time to share stories while not getting attached anywhere. No recommendations specifically, you can't go wrong as long as you go.
HARAJUKU
Whenever, 1-3 hour commitment
Largely where the E Girls reside, this is a crowded street or two where there's plenty of shopping. Very midtown New York and nothing you need to do here ebsides look around. Kyoto served the same purpose as Harajuku (which also has a Mipig cafe!).
SHIBUYA
Whenever, However Much Time
Their Times Square from what I am told! The Shibuya Scramble was awesome. Everybody waiting to cross then SWARM SWARM SWARM. Again, they have the NIke store and the Disney store etc, you don't need to shop here just like you wouldn't in Times Square, but fun to visit to see for yourself.
